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Lama Zopa Rinpoche at Tiger’s Nest, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
On May 31, Lama Zopa Rinpoche made a special pilgrimage to Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest), a very special temple complex associated with Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) on the steep cliffsides of the upper Paro valley. According to legend, in the 8th century Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress (sometimes considered to be the magically transformed yogini Yeshe Tsogyal) to Taktsang Senge Samdup cave and meditated there for just over three years to subdue obstructive forces and bless the environment.
Many notable practitioners are said to have visited the cave, including Milarepa, the Tibetan yogini Machig Labdrön and Thangton Gyalpo. In 1692, Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye built a temple complex at the site.
Lama Zopa Rinpoche in a palanquin, beginning the pilgrimage to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
Twelve men divided into two rotating teams carried the palanquin Lama Zopa Rinpoche needed to make the three-hour journey to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Lobsang Sherab.
“Rinpoche had to be carried in a palanquin due to the steep and very long climb from 7,900 feet [200 meters] to 10,800 feet [274 meters], a three hours’ walk one way,” said Ven. Roger Kunsang, Rinpoche’s assistant and CEO of FPMT, Inc. “We had to make arrangements for a group of 12 strong Bhutanese men to come from Thimbu to Paro to help carry the palanquin. A group of six would carry it and then they would change places every 15 to 20 minutes. The climb was very steep and very difficult in some places, with just a narrow dirt trail most of the way. Sometimes the palanquin would be at more than a 45 degree angle. But, the Bhutanese men were very enthusiastic and joyful in carrying Rinpoche. Rinpoche chanted different mantras and prayers much of the time, blessing the people carrying him and others around. In total, there was about 30 to 35 people in our group.
On the trail to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, pray wheel houses such as these utilize the stream’s current to help the wheels continually spin, blessing the water and surrounding environment, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
“More than half way, we arrived at a small tea shop built on the edge of the cliff. There was a small room with a view of Tiger’s Nest across the valley. It was a tsog day so Rinpoche offered Most Secret Hayagriva tsog for about two hours. We had a quick lunch during which a number of Bhutanese gathered around Rinpoche for blessings. Rinpoche blessed a lot of water for them to take back to their homes.
Lama Zopa Rinpoche and entourage stop for a short break along the trail to Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It had just started to rain, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
Lama Zopa Rinpoche stopped two-thirds of the way to have lunch and to perform a puja in a tea house with a view of Tiger’s Nest Monastery, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
In a small tea house, Lama Zopa Rinpoche performed a Most Secret Hayagriva tsog in view of Tiger’s Nest Monastery, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
“It took a further 90 minutes up a steep climb to arrive on the cliff opposite Tiger’s Nest Monastery. By this time, it was getting late. The light was disappearing, rain was coming and Rinpoche felt it was too difficult to complete the last part of the journey to the cave, which he would have had to walk to himself without the palanquin due to the steep and narrow stairs. Instead, Rinpoche did extensive prayers from a place directly opposite the monastery. While doing prayers, a few people went off to make the last part of the pilgrimage to the actual cave and monastery.
Lama Zopa Rinpoche, Geshe Tenzin Khenrab, the men who helped carry Rinpoche’s palanquin, and others in front of Tiger’s Nest Monastery, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Lobsang Sherab.
“After this, we made our way as fast as we could down the mountain as it was now raining and the dirt path was getting more and more slippery and dangerous. It took about two hours to come down and we were very fortunate that nobody slipped and fell! Rinpoche chanted mantras and prayers all the way down.
“When we reached the bottom we were greeted by many Bhutanese who had gathered there to greet Rinpoche with tea and cheese momos. They had also quickly erected a tent to keep off the rain.
Lama Zopa Rinpoche arrives back at the trailhead after three hours in the rain with the assistance of generous volunteers, Tiger’s Nest, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Roger Kunsang.
Several local Bhutanese came to greet Lama Zopa Rinpoche when he returned from attempting to visit Taktsang Senge Samdup cave, Bhutan, May 2016. Photo by Ven. Lobsang Sherab.
“When everyone arrived and settled and had tea, Rinpoche was so very grateful to those who had carried him that he gave them more blessings, holy objects and a short teaching on the three principles of the path.
“Rinpoche plans to visit one more time while in Bhutan to actually compete the journey and visit the cave of Guru Rinpoche.”
Lama Zopa Rinpoche is the spiritual director of the Foundation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition (FPMT), a Tibetan Buddhist organization dedicated to the transmission of the Mahayana Buddhist tradition and values worldwide through teaching, meditation and community service.