Gen Dondrub and FPMT Australia pilgrims at Jana Bahal Temple, which contains a statue of Avalokiteshvara, one of the most revered by Newari Buddhists, and small paintings of the 108 manifestations of Avalokiteshvara, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Mark Kinnear.

In February 2018 a group of FPMT students traveled together from Australia to Kathmandu, Nepal, for a pilgrimage led by Gen Thubten Dondrub*, FPMT resident teacher at Buddha House, an FPMT center in Australia. In addition to encountering Lama Zopa Rinpoche in Nepal, the pilgrims visited many holy places: Boudhanath Stupa; Namo Buddha Stupa; Swayambhunath Stupa; holy sites in Sankhu, Pharping, and Patan; Nagi Gompa; the Maratika Caves; and ancient city temples associated with the deities Tara and Vajrayogini. This story was compiled by some of the Buddha House pilgrims.

On February 3, 2018, twenty-two students from five FPMT centers in Australia—Buddha House; Hayagriva Buddhist Centre; Tara Meditation Centre; Vajrayana Institute; and Gyalwa Ensapa Broome Buddhist Study Group—flew into Kathmandu, Nepal, for the beginning of what turned out to be very auspicious twenty-one days of pilgrimage.

Snow in the mountains, a view from Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Ven. Lobsang Sherab.

Arriving at Kopan Monastery, the FPMT monastery in Kathmandu, around midnight, the group was greeted the next morning with a thrill—they discovered Lama Zopa Rinpoche was in residence at Kopan for Losar (Tibetan New Year) and would be there through to the Day of Miracles.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche advised in “Practices for Pilgrimage”: “How do we make pilgrimage as meaningful, useful and beneficial as possible? The main point of pilgrimage is to subdue our minds. By eliminating mistaken thoughts, not allowing the mind to be under the control of delusion, the mind is better able to actualize the lam-rim realizations, from guru devotion up to enlightenment.”

Gen Thubten Dondrub leading a short retreat on Orange Manjushri in the Tantric College Gompa at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Sandy Faber.

Gen Thubten Dondrub began the pilgrimage with a strict pre-warning to those about to join him, saying, “You are not on a holiday.” We would be visiting the holy sites in Kathmandu, the Kathmandu Valley, and Maratika Caves, where we would recite prayers, mantras, and engage in practices including tsog offerings.

Gen Thubten Dondrub leading practices and tsog offerings, Sankhu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Peter Wagner.

Due to the kindness and great effort of Judy Wagner, Buddha House spiritual program coordinator, a portable altar, water bowls, and offerings were set up at each holy site—even if the tsog had to be guarded from cunning monkeys!

To fulfill Lama Zopa Rinpoche’s advice of not wasting time, Gen Thubten Dondrub made the most of our lengthy bus and jeep rides through Kathmandu traffic, leading Tara and Vajrasattva practices in the morning and dedications during the rides home.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche offering the White Umbrella deity empowerment at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Bill Kane.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche advised in “Practices for Pilgrimage”: “Devotion is very important in pilgrimage, otherwise we are no different from a tourist—taking pictures of that place, that rock, that cave, with no change to the mind, the heart.”

The tight itinerary was subject to change and impermanence; each day news came through of special pujas, initiations, and prayers being offered by Lama Zopa Rinpoche in Kopan’s main gompa.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche deep in conversation with Khen Rinpoche Geshe Thubten Chonyi, Ven. Roger Kunsang, Buddha House resident teacher Gen Thubten Dondrub, director Lyndy Abram, and spiritual program coordinator Judy Wagner at Hotel Vajra, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Mark Kinnear.

Gen Thubten Dondrub and Peter Wagner, pilgrimage coordinator and Buddha House student, did an excellent job navigating the changes; all of our planned site visits were fulfilled around Rinpoche’s schedule.

Buddha House and Gen Thubten Dondrub hosted a lunch for Lama Zopa Rinpoche; Ven. Roger Kunsang, FPMT CEO; Khen Rinpoche Geshe Thubten Chonyi, Kopan Monastery and Nunnery abbot; Western Sangha; and the group of pilgrims. We shared lunch at Hotel Vajra in Kathmandu, which included singing “Happy Birthday” to Tenzin Ösel Hita using Facetime!

Lama Zopa Rinpoche and pilgrims at Hotel Vajra, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Ven. Lobsang Sherab.

This lunch came about due to an offer by Lama Zopa Rinpoche to spend the day with the pilgrims. The day commenced with Rinpoche bestowing the Bodhisattva Vows at Jamchen Lhakhang Monastery, a Sakya monastery at Boudhanath Stupa, and finished twelve hours later after a lengthy circumambulation of Swayambanath Stupa with Rinpoche giving many explanations, offerings, prayer recitations, and dedications along the way.

How amazing—wow, wow, wow!—for the pilgrims to meet and spend time with the precious Guru.

Rinpoche bestowing Bodhisattva Vows at Jamchen Lhakhang Monastery, Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Frank Maraz.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche advised in “Practices for Pilgrimage”: “Actually, on pilgrimage it’s very good to have difficulties because they purify the mind. We have to understand that difficulties purify the negativities; it’s like when we do Vajrasattva retreat and become sick. Think, ‘I am going to this place to purify my mind—to purify all the negative karmas and defilements—and to collect extensive merit, in order to have the realization of lamrim.’

“With such a motivation, when we experience problems or difficulties, these become worthwhile. … Yet if hardships are experienced with the thought of the eight worldly dharmas—with attachment clinging to this life—then there is no special benefit; they only become torture.”

The trip was not without difficulties for most of the pilgrims. From chest to stomach complaints, including knees, hips, and backs, the pilgrims took their turns taking on their purifications with acceptance, knowing how much hardship the great masters of the past bore to practice Dharma.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche advised in “Practices for Pilgrimage”: “One lama made the comment that when the great, holy beings—buddhas, bodhisattvas, and yogis—go on pilgrimage, they bless the place. And when ordinary people go there, they receive blessings from that place. So pilgrimage means to receive blessings from the holy places to inspire our mind to transform into the path.”

Rinpoche giving explanations, prayers, and making offerings with FPMT Australia pilgrims and Sangha at Swayambhunath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Carole Migalka.

Many holy places were visited including Boudhanath Stupa; Namo Buddha Stupa; Swayambhunath Stupa; holy sites in Sankhu, Pharping, and Patan; and ancient city temples associated with the deities Tara and Vajrayogini.

Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery (Kopan Nunnery) was also a memorable visit. The nuns were very welcoming as we all stocked up on the incense that is made on site.

Gen Thubten Dondrub included Nagi Gompa in the itinerary; it is located high up in Shivapuri National Park with a panoramic view of the Kathmandu Valley. The national park and nunnery were covered with snow that morning. It was just magical. After completing our practices and prayers in the beautiful little gompa—and devouring a packed lunch from Kopan—the day cleared up, giving us a stunning view of the valley on our return journey.

Ven. Joan Nicell with a group of FPMT Australia pilgrims in Pharping, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Amber Bamjan Tamang.

Our itinerary concluded with a nine-hour jeep ride to the Maratika Caves, also known as Haleshi.

According to Condense Guide to Maratika—prepared by Maratika Lama (Ngawang Chophel Gyatso), a student of the Lawudo Lama, and blessed by Trulshik Rinpoche, one of Lama Zopa Rinpoche’s teachers—Padmasambhava said, “If one visits this great holy place called Haleshi or ‘Astonishing,’ one will not need to experience the lower realms.”

Thubten Rigsel Rinpoche and Tenzin Phuntsok Rinpoche with FPMT Australia pilgrims at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Mark Kinnear.

Many thanks go to our compassionate and patient guide Amber Bamjan Tamang, owner of Three Jewels Adventures, for his flexibility and care during the entire pilgrimage. Amber is a Buddhist who holds a master’s degree in culture from Tribhuwan University, Kathmandu. Gen Thubten Dondrub has led four pilgrimages for Australian FPMT centers with Amber as the guide each time.

We also thank Amber’s wonderful team of experienced drivers, who maneuvered the traffic and rocky roads in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. They also took us through the rugged terrain going to and from the Maratika Caves, which was an experience in itself!

Gen Thubten Dondrub and FPMT Australia pilgrims doing practices on their last night in Nepal, Gen Thubten Dondrub’s room at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu, Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Carole Migalka.

The “family feeling” (or “pamily peeling” as Lama Yeshe used to say) was truly present at Kopan and for the whole pilgrimage.

We were all so fortunate to have Lama Zopa Rinpoche in residence at Kopan during our visit; to be able to have tea, make offerings, and spend time with Thubten Rigsel Rinpoche and Tenzin Phunstok Rinpoche; and to have the opportunity to connect with pilgrims from other Australian FPMT centers and fellow worldwide travelers who were staying at Kopan, sharing experiences and stories.

Everyone at Kopan was so welcoming and helpful—especially Ani Fran with all her knowledge and assistance during our stay; the wonderful Ven. Joan Nicell for accompanying us to Pharping and leading our practices and prayers that day; Ani Tenzin Namdrol, who is in charge of Lama Zopa Rinpoche’s apartment, for her support with anything that we needed for our pujas and practices at the holy sites; and Ven. Lobsang Lourdup (“Bijay”) and the other monks in the office for all their assistance. They all keep that wonderful “family feeling” alive!

Gen Thubten Dondrub in Nepal, February 2019. Photo by Mark Kinnear.

Lastly and by no means least, a great big “Thank you!” to Gen Thubten Dondrub—for not only leading the pilgrimage—but also for constantly displaying his devotion to Lama Zopa Rinpoche, and his dedication to the FPMT organization through his actions and words.

Gen Thubten Donbrub is such a wonderful humble monk who first met Lama Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rinpoche at Chenrezig Institute back in the mid 1970’s. Gen Thubten Dondrub’s stories, and the references he makes to the lamas during his teachings, helps students feel a strong connection and that FPMT “family feeling.”

Gen Thubten Dondrub has led the November Course at Kopan eight times, teaching hundreds of students from all over the world and influencing so many lives, with some students even going on to take ordination. Staying at Kopan Monastery with this knowledge during the pilgrimage was truly amazing.

We would like to acknowledge and thank Gen Thubten Dondrub for everything he has contributed to help spread the Dharma worldwide over the last forty years. We are so very fortunate at Buddha House to have him as our resident teacher; he has made such a difference since he arrived in 2012.

By the look of all those smiles in these photos, it seems an abundance of blessings were received on the pilgrimage!

* In 2019 Gen Thubten Dondrub requested Buddha House students formally refer to him as “Gen Thubten Dondrub.” He shared, “Usually monks and nuns of the FPMT are referred to as ‘Venerable.’ I have always found this term uncomfortable as it is a very exalted term and is used in the Catholic Church to refer to someone who is in line to be canonized as a saint. When I was in Taiwan I learned that every monk and nun was addressed as ‘Fa Shr’ from the moment they were ordained. The term means ‘Dharma teacher.’ The closest Tibetan equivalent is ‘ge.gen,’ often abbreviated to ‘Gen’ or ‘Gen-la.’ It is polite and friendly. So when people ask how to address me, I suggest using that term. It seems much more appropriate than ‘Venerable.'”

For more information about Buddha House, visit their website:
http://buddhahouse.org