Feature image: Elena, and Cees on pilgrimage in Mongolia, August 2018. Photo courtesy of Ianzhina Bartanova.

Ianzhina Bartanova, director of FPMT center Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, shares about an August 2018 fourteen-day pilgrimage the center organized to holy sites in Mongolia.

Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling placed an advertisement in the January-June 2018 issue of FPMT’s Mandala magazine inviting readers to join us for an August 2018 pilgrimage to the holy sites in Mongolia. It was the first pilgrimage for Western Buddhists organized by Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling. Three courageous students from Bulgaria, Holland, and the US arrived in Mongolia in mid-August for the eleven-day pilgrimage, which later expanded into fourteen days.

The capital of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar, is impressive: tall modern buildings, busy traffic, expensive cars on the roads, fancy restaurants with international cuisine including vegan and vegetarian options, comfortable hotels, and smiling people.

Driver Oyunbaatar, Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling center director Ianzhina, a lama from Tuvkhun Monastery, Cees, and Bill in Mongolia, August 2018. Photo courtesy of Ianzhina Bartanova.

But the real jewels of our pilgrimage were the Mongolian monasteries, some of which were destroyed and then restored. A few survived the Communist purges of the 1930s and are home to some hidden artifacts, which were buried in the ground. Like the canvas for a masterpiece, Mongolia’s natural environment provided a framed backdrop for the holy sites, which appear like beautiful jewelry.

Together with the pilgrims, we visited approximately ten monasteries, took in a few natural sights, and made some visits related to Buddhist museums. When developing the itinerary, we recognized the importance of sharing some cultural aspects and traditions so our guests could have a richer experience of Mongolia. Therefore, we included some secular activities such as a traditional music show and a sightseeing visit to the largest Genghis Khan equestrian statue.

Our journey commenced in Ulaanbaatar at Gandan Tegchenling Monastery, the center of Mongolian Buddhism. It was the only Buddhist monastery preserved during the Socialist era. Joseph Stalin had the wish to demonstrate to the whole capitalist world that there was religious freedom in a socialist country.

Another special feature is that many monasteries in the countryside are located on hills or on top of a mountain. With each visit, we were able to enjoy not only the spiritual heritage of the place, but also breathtaking panoramic views.

A large waterfall in Mongolia, August 2018. Photo by Ianzhina Bartanova.

The peak experience of our journey was visiting Tuvkhun Monastery, on top of Shireet Ulaan Uul mountain. Tuvkhun Monastery was founded by the great bodhisattva Zanabazar, the first Jebtsundamba, the “Dalai Lama” of Mongolia. We were able to feel the powerful and blessed energy of the monastery.

During our spiritual practices we experienced some obstacles, which we viewed as helping us to purify our collective and individual negative karmas. Major lessons of the pilgrimage were around purification of negative karma and the accumulation of merits. We practiced patience by sitting up in a vehicle for twelve hours. Our backs and buttocks were well and truly massaged by the end!

Actually we could call ourselves very fortunate because we were able to see the flood in the Gobi Desert! It was an unimaginable and almost impossible natural phenomenon—a rare sight! Due to the flood in the Gobi Desert, the only road leading to Khamar Monastery had been washed away. We had no alternative but to turn back after one full day of driving. Most of the group returned to this destination at a later time, when the ground had dried. This is the reason our pilgrimage was extended for a further three days.

A valley with grazing animals, Mongolia, August 2018. Photo by Ianzhina Bartanova.

There were some other obstacles, such as tensions and closed restaurants. However, reflecting upon how the pilgrimage impacted myself, I can say that all challenges were not an issue providing a correct motivation was maintained for our activities. Serving the Guru is the best one. Through correct devotion and service to the Guru we can purify hundreds of eons of negative karma and benefit many sentient beings around us.

Lama Zopa Rinpoche said, “Pilgrimage needs faith. The more faith, the more happiness. Otherwise, you are just like a tourist looking at ruins.”

Ani Dechen, Ani Baljid, Cees, Elena, Bill, Ani Nyima, and Ani Choden at Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, August 2018. Photo by Ianzhina Bartanova.

Following Rinpoche’s advice, we recited Dharma prayers and did practices at every place we visited. We recited the names of the Thirty-five Buddhas, lamrim prayers, and the great bodhisattva Zanabazar’s special prayer. Ven. Thubten Gyalmo, our resident teacher, kindly guided us through setting a proper motivation at the beginning of our pilgrimage and a making our dedications at the end.

It was very interesting to observe the play of our respective karmas in such a short time. On the tenth day of our pilgrimage, we were blessed with an audience with Jhado Rinpoche! A wonderful surprise for us all! As novices on the Dharma path, we couldn’t imagine that Rinpoche would find time in his very busy schedule to talk to us.

By the end of the pilgrimage we had all become great friends. We are not sure if our paths will cross again. However, we admit that there was a strong karmic bond that connected us all in Mongolia.

Ger camp in Mongolia, August 2018. Photo by Ianzhina Bartanova.

I will conclude my story with one special highlight. One night when we were in the middle of nowhere, in an eco ger camp without electricity and water, we saw an exquisite night sky full of bright stars. I had the impression that I could reach up and touch the sky, and all of these stars were bound together like one shiny net. So likewise were we linked together in the net of samsara.

For more information about Ganden Do Ngag Shedrup Ling, visit their website:
http://www.fpmtmongolia.org/shedrub-ling-center