An outdoor puja for Lama Zopa Rinpoche’ swift return in front of Lawudo Gompa. Photo by Alison Murdoch.

Two weeks after Lama Zopa Rinpoche entered his final meditation, FPMT students Paula Chichester and Alison Murdoch took the opportunity to return to Lawudo and join with Rinpoche’s family in some of the ceremonies taking place there. A week later Ven. Amy Miller arrived with a pilgrimage group, and subsequently returned alone for a period of practice and retreat. Here is a brief overview of what took place during this unique and profound time, from Alison Murdoch:

As soon as the sad news reached Lawudo, Ani Ngawang Samten, Rinpoche’s sister, started making plans to go down to the Kathmandu valley. Her grief at suddenly losing her guru and brother in this way has to be unimaginable, especially as it is eight years since Rinpoche was last able to visit in person. She left the next day by helicopter and reached Kopan about an hour before Rinpoche finished his meditation. “It felt as if he would open his eyes and speak to me at any moment,” she said later. Ven. Tsultrim, a Swiss nun who has been at Lawudo since Spring 2022, generously agreed to stay behind to look after Ashan (Rinpoche’s uncle, aged 98) and Tsultrim Norbu, who is now in his 70s. Without this kind offer, it would probably have been impossible for Ani Ngawang Samten to leave at such short notice. At Kopan she was joined by her brother Sangay and his wife, by Geshema Thubten Zangmo, and by other members of the family who had immediately flown over from the USA. 

Ani Samten at Heruka Lama Chopa, Kopan, Nepal, April 19 2023. Photo by Capucine Redon.

The first week at Lawudo after Rinpoche showed the aspect of leaving his body was relatively quiet. Ven. Tsultrim welcomed the arrival of Ven Trinley from Tenboche Monastery, who joined her in carrying out daily Cittamani Tara pujas. On the fourteenth day after Rinpoche’s passing Ven. Ngawang Nyendak came to lead a Chenrezig puja. Ven. Nyendak is a highly accomplished tantric practitioner who at Lama Zopa Rinpoche’s request carries out regular practices at Lawudo dedicated to the flourishing of the FPMT. By this time Rinpoche’s cousin Nyima Tashi had arrived and started making preparations for more extensive prayers and practices. The weather turned unseasonably cold, with a light snow falling all day like a blessing.

Light offerings in Lawudo Gompa. Photo by Alison Murdoch.

On the twenty-first day, the monks from Thame Monastery came to lead an extensive all-day Chenrezig puja in the gompa, joined by Tenzin Trinley the resident lama at nearby Charok Hermitage. The weather suddenly cleared, and day after day there were radiant blue skies. The monks returned again on the 28^th day for a two-day puja, presided over by the young Thame Rinpoche. Ashan offered the mandala on the first day, and Anila Ngawang Samten on the second day. It was an unforgettable sight to see the gompa packed with sangha, lights and offerings, and an even more extraordinary sound when all its drums, cymbals, horns, oboes, conch shells and thigh bone trumpets echoed out over the valley. On the 35^th day, the nuns from Thamo carried out a Vajrayogini self-initiation, and on the forty-second and forty-ninth days there were extensive pujas dedicated to Rinpoche in the gompas at Thame and Tenboche. (The Thame monks weren’t permitted to return to Lawudo for these final pujas due to the imminent Mani Rimdu celebrations). On each of the other six days of the week, Ven Tsultrim led a Cittamani Tara puja in either the gompa or the cave.

Anila Ngawang Samten joins the puja with the Thame monks. Photo by Alison Murdoch.

Despite the challenges of Lawudo Gompa being so remote, over two hours’ walk from the nearest shop, in true Sherpa style these pujas involved extensive tsog offerings. For the main puja on the twenty-eighth day, huge bags of tsog were distributed not only to everyone who attended but also hand-delivered to every family in the valley. In addition to bottles of fizzy drinks, packets of crisps and biscuits and fresh fruit (all rare delicacies at an elevation of 14,000 feet) the bags of tsog included the traditional deep-fried khapse and individual tormas made of tsampa, butter and sugar. Nyima Tashi’s numerous shopping trips to Namche Bazaar would be followed the next day by a train of animals and porters carrying heavy sacks of offerings up the mountainside, and he organized five teams of Sherpa volunteers to make the khapse and tormas and to fill and distribute the mountain of tsog. Other volunteers made extensive water bowl offerings or rolled cotton wool into wicks for the hundreds of silver and copper butter lamps, while a team of smiling nuns kept everyone supplied with butter and sweet tea. The space under the library was rapidly converted into an additional kitchen and a chef was hired to cook copious meals for all the volunteers and visitors. Ven. Nyendak also led extra practices in the courtyard for all the Sherpas who couldn’t fit into the gompa.

Teams of local Sherpas assemble the bags of tsog. Photo by Ven. Alison Murdoch.

This was a historic occasion, never to be repeated. One of the most moving moments was when Anila Ngawang Samten and her brother Sangay returned by helicopter with a set of Rinpoche’s robes, which were carried ceremoniously up the juniper-lined path from Mende and installed with prayers and offerings on His throne in the gompa. Now that the crowds of mourners have departed, please keep the family in your prayers as they begin to come to terms with their immense personal loss.

Please read previously published articles about Lawudo Gompa and Retreat Center. 

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